Whetstone Magazine is the largest Black-owned food magazine in the country. Launched in 2017, the magazine initially struggled to get off the ground — now it encompasses a newly launched audio studio.
Stephen Satterfield, the magazine’s founder, is realistic about the struggles it took to get the magazine to get where it is, but also the excitement he felt when he put out the first issue. At that point, he knew he needed to put out another.
Satterfield is also the host of High on the Hog, a four-episode series on Netflix about the origins of African American cooking and how it’s defined the tone for American cooking as a whole. The show is based on a 2011 book by Jessica B. Harris of the same name.
The Objective editor Gabe Schneider talked to Satterfield about U.S. food media, what values and frameworks define Satterfield and Whetstone’s writing, and what it meant to be the only Black-owned food media company in print. This interview has been edited for length and clarity.
And the way that food media was being presented to us, in prior years, was through a lens that was incredibly myopic, unimaginative, and formulaic. And the formula basically went like: Recipes, restaurants, and restaurants limited to those European-trained, white-owned, almost entirely male chefs. A very redundant kind of cuisine and ideology and aesthetic. Really a lot of the same exclusive power dynamics that permeate in a lot of places. And so, as someone who grew up being deeply interested in food, getting into food as a young person, becoming a sommelier, starting wine as a teenager, going to culinary school … I just got sick of how underutilized food was being presented to us as a medium for dialogue or investigation.
What I can definitely say is Dr. Jessica B. Harris, who obviously I appeared with on-screen and is the source material for High on the Hog, the docuseries, was always a north star for me in terms of rigor. Had cookbooks, but cookbooks, not just with recipes that work, but deep analysis. Work that really showed an exhaustive, comprehensive understanding of the subject matter and intermittently with: “Here’s recipes.” I think that rigor, not just in food media, but across media, is needed.
Honestly, I just try to mind my own business. The first time I was really thinking about all of this was probably like 2015. We really started in 2017. And so it took us a couple of years to get going. And that has required me to pay a lot more attention to what’s happening in our camp than looking outward. I hope I’m not somehow exposing myself in saying that, but it does take a huge amount of concentration, communication, and planning to make content at the scale and quality that we all are. So I’m really just trying to focus on building what we’re building and not really think about it in terms of how it fits in.
We had a couple of less-than-stellar crowdfunding campaigns trying to get Whetstone off the ground. It wasn’t like lines were wrapped around the door anticipating the arrival of Whetstone, but we did find an audience gradually and I was instantly motivated to try and grow it.
I wasn’t sure if I wanted to do a second one, I just wanted to do a first issue, but then when the first was out, I almost immediately wanted to do another one and then I wanted to build a business around it. And so I think, as time has gone on, that commitment for me has deepened and a lot of the stuff that we hope for has been realized, but what’s required to keep the lights on … that’s kind of where my head is.
What is so true in this moment as these older media institutions clumsily try to find enlightenment around equity, not actually because they care (in my view), audiences are really becoming quite a bit more sophisticated and there is a really rapid bifurcating and splintering and segmentation of audiences and more autonomy among singular talent. And so the pressures, I think, are a little bit different for larger institutions as they try to find their footing in this really awkward terrain for them. Which is also, I think, connected more broadly to this moment that we’re in, where seemingly and hopefully, it looks like labor has the mic for a little bit. And yeah, here we are. Media’s trying to scramble and figure it out.
I think things have, in the last couple of years, begun to change again because of this breadth of voices that we see and read. We’ve tried to very intentionally come at this from, what we call (somewhat problematically) an anthropological point of view, into our analysis of food, because it gets us to a way of talking about human beings and talking about the relationship that we all have as humans. And there’s a lot in there that is messy. There’s some in there that’s emotional, there’s some that’s historical and factual. It’s the full range … that’s all the stuff that I am interested in capturing. But I tend to have a cynical view when I hear the word objectivity in the context of food media. Those two things, at least historically, just don’t even belong in the same sentence.
When I think about blockchain technology, in particular, the implications for artists, for farmers, for Black wealth … I’m not so sure that I have well-formed ideas around this new future. So I think that’s just like something that I personally feel conflicted by right now.
It’s hard to find well-paying jobs in journalism, but it’s also an incredible time, especially for journalists of color, because we don’t just have the sauce, we are the sauce. It’s important to just understand your own unique individual value.
I think these next five to 10 years are going to be a wave, but I think when you’re thinking about publications or institutional media or the industry at large, it’s expensive and it’s hard to find jobs that pay. It’s hard to find jobs that are funded. And I think it’s good to be clear on that as young professionals.
Gabe Schneider is the Editor of The Objective. This Q&A originally ran at The Objective. Subscribe to its newsletters here.